New York, New York!
I first visited NYC in the summer of 1979. I was living in Cedarburg,WI, recently married to my first wife, and commuting into Milwaukee for work. I traveled to New York to deliver training to Northwestern Mutual's two agencies in the city. The Peter Hearst agency was located in the Chrysler building at 42nd and Lexington. The Gilberg agency was further down in the Garment District. At the Hearst agency, they expected you, welcomed you, and took you to lunch after you finished your training session. At the Gilberg agency, they were surprised by your scheduled arrival, uncertain where to put you, and glad when you were gone.
I stayed up around 57th and 7th at the old Sheraton Americana overlooking Central Park. The City wasn't a great a place to be at that time. It was a little tacky, a little sleazy uptown. The concierge warned against walking in neighborhoods you didn't know. Times Square was lined with x-rated movie theatres and adult "museums." Guys sold Rolex watch rip-offs out of their trunks on the side streets. Even uptown got creepy after dark.
Things have changed.
We just returned from Labor Day weekend spent in the City with tickets to the US Open in the evening. We took Reilly to Central Park, the Museum of Natural History, Times Square, the Chelsea Market and Balducci's, the Chrysler Building, and Battery Park for a view of the Statue of Liberty. We road the subway downtown and out to Flushing for The Open. We rode it back at night.
The city has cleaned up it's act. Lenox Hill, where we stayed, a block off of Central Park, up around 76th Street, is refined, clean, and safe. Bolouds's Cafe, next to the Surrey Hotel where we stayed, is just one of several elegant restaurants in the area. Times Square is mostly devoid of trash--the biggest attraction being the world's largest Toys 'R Us, where we took Reilly Sunday afternoon. The subway was busy, but people were polite and talkative. We never felt threatened. The streets were clean and full of families with strollers.
The Open was majestic ,as you might expect. We enjoyed three evenings of near perfect weather, eating well, drinking Sancerre, and watching world class tennis including tickets to Fedderer versus Lopez.
Reilly had mixed feelings about it all. The subway and Toys 'R Us were at the top of his list. Tennis wasn't that exciting from his perspective.
It's hard to determine the full impact of 9/11 on the city. But, compared to years ago, it seems a more humane, gentler, and kinder place. The cabbies are even respectful (sort of) of pedestrians and each other. The doormen smile, people on the street look you in the eye. Some will even talk to you.
We had only one weird New York experience. Coming home on Sunday night from Queens on the subway, a large black man rose to his feet and sang a song about chickens with a strange chorus about chicken heads. Reilly was pretty amazed. We passed on making a contribution when the man passed the hat. A few minutes later, a scraggly woman stood before Reilly and played (poorly) an instrument that appeared to be a cross between a clarinet and a piano. Again, Reilly was amazed.
He looked at his mother, stone cold serious, and said, "This is a very musical train."
It's safe to visit the City again.
Gary
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Reader Comments (2)
I still think of John Lindsay as the Mayor, though he left office in about 1974. Seemed like the place tanked after he left. The decline was due to many factors of course, but after he left, I felt the city had lost its luster.
My wife loves it. The first time I took her to Manhattan, she "could hardly breathe" because it was so exciting. When visiting my parents in New Jersey, we always drove in to see a Broadway show and have dinner.
I've never taken her on the Subway. My last subway experience was in 1972, and it was pretty squalid. I decided that cabs were a much better way to get around. It is good to hear that the subway has improved. Still, I'll go with cabs. I really prefer to drive my own car, though parking is more expensive than taking cabs! When I drive, I take a beater car. Why tempt fate with a good car?
My ambivalence about NY is huge. I hate the "Noo Yawk Attitude" and the exaggerated accent. (Which most of my relatives have.) I'm not crazy about the Yankees, though I really hate the way people adopt the Yankee identity - don't they have an identity of their own?
The provincialism is annoying. My cousins: "Where is that plantation where you live? Maryland? Where is that? When are you moving back to Noo Yawk?" (Right, probably never... why would I?)
Having said all that, I never miss a chance to go in for the day. There is no place else like it. On a pretty day, it sparkles. On a lousy day, I go to museums and lose myself in the cultural offerings.
My brother Chris told me that we had one relative who worked in the World Trade Center. Second cousin. She was late that day, because of a doctor appointment in New Jersey. She saw the towers collapse from her ferry boat, on the way in. They turned her boat around and went back to the dock.
Your comments were interesting to me, as I am so biased about the city. I like to hear about it from folks who "see it with new eyes." Helps me come to terms with it. I'm moving in that direction -- thanks.